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Domaine Lucien Crochet, Pinot Noir, Sancerre Rouge, La Croix du Roy

Loire Valley, France 2012 (750mL)
$38.00
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Domaine Lucien Crochet, Pinot Noir, Sancerre Rouge, La Croix du Roy

Let me cut to the chase: If today’s breathtaking red said “Volnay” on the label and cost twice as much, Burgundy collectors would be falling over themselves to get some. With such seductive perfume, dark fruit, elegant lines, bottle age, and a deep terroir character that can only originate from ancient, limestone-rich vineyards, this bottle is a Volnay lover’s dream. But it’s not Volnay; it’s not even Burgundy! It hails from about two hours’ drive west in the limestone hills of Sancerre. 
It represents an extraordinary value for anyone looking to experience the sublime pleasures of Burgundian-style Pinot Noir without putting a significant dent in their wine budget. And make no mistake: Despite its modest price, this is a blue-chip red, with several years of bottle age, from one of Sancerre’s masters—Lucien Crochet. Their scandalously underrated Sancerre Rouge, “La Croix du Roy,” is on fire today and will only continue improving for another four to six years. We have enough of it to allow for by-the-case purchases today, and I could foresee even this ample quantity disappearing quickly. Don’t miss this!
In the early 20th century, the Crochet family was one of the first to bottle Sancerre for commercial sale in Paris. Decades later, Lucien Crochet’s Sancerre was one of the first of the region’s wines to break into the Bordeaux- and Burgundy- dominated New York wine market. To this day, the family’s Sancerre Blanc is a globally recognized benchmark. You can find the white Sancerre cuvée, “La Chêne Marchand,” gracing celebrated wine lists across the globe, and retailing as one of the region’s top “luxury” bottlings. But perhaps because there is so much fanfare focused around Crochet’s whites, the family’s outstanding reds remain a well-kept secret. For me, there’s no question that today’s wine is one of the most exciting under-$75 French Pinot Noirs bottled outside of Burgundy. 

Mirroring a typical Burgundian soil “recipe,” Crochet’s vineyards contain a mix of limestone and clay with a touch of gravel. Their Pinot Noir vines are predominantly south-facing, adding a welcome addition of heat and sun exposure to this typically cool growing region. All farming is conducted using organic materials, and grape clusters are harvested by hand. Following the harvest, fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks, without the use of synthetic yeasts. In the year that follows, 60% of the wine is aged in neutral oak barrels and the remaining 40% remains in tank. Thereafter, the tanks and barrels are blended together for an additional eight months of aging in tank. Finally, the wine is bottled and aged for an additional two-plus years before it is released in the US. It’s worth mentioning that this is an extremely time-consuming and expensive process for any red wine with such a modest price tag. Top producers in Burgundy are already sold out of 2016 Premier Crus while we are only now seeing this 2012 for the first time!

Crochet’s 2012 Sancerre Rouge “Croix du Roy” envelops the senses with dark currant and cherry fruit, intoxicating mountain flowers, crushed white stone and just a hint of spice from neutral French oak. This wine is delicious immediately after the cork is pulled, but a generous rest in a decanter only serves to broaden its presence on the palate and make more detailed the already exquisite aromas. If enjoying soon, please serve in large Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees—and, ideally, alongside a classic French meal. The attached chicken fricassee is a French staple and a perfect pairing for the red this coming winter. As always with Crochet’s reliably outstanding Rouge, you should consider throwing some bottles in the cellar because when these wines get 7-8 years of age they really turn the corner into their peak. With just another year, or two, in bottle, this is a wine that will stand shoulder-to-shoulder with upper-echelon red Burgundies, but at a fraction of the price! Blind taste your most discerning friends and you will see!
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Country
France
Region
Loire Valley
Sub-Region
FranceSancerre Rouge
Soil
Limestone, Clay and Stones
Farming
Organic
Blend
Pinot Noir
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Mostly Neutral French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy
Drinking
Now-2028
Decanting
15-30 Minutes
Pairing
Chicken Fricassee

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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