In 2014, Ernest Pérez-Mas essentially hit the UNESCO World Heritage Site lottery when he purchased Heretat Mascorrubí, a farmstead that was formed by the Knights Templar in the late-1200s. For more than 800 years, this land was cultivated and used as a place of worship. So when Ernest bought it from the previous owner—a grower who would sell off his coveted grape crop to various co-ops and wineries—he, being a native and serious wine devotee, immediately began bottling his own precious juice.
Ernest left these gnarled vines untouched while adding organic farming to the mix, allowing these obscure, indigenous grapes to shine their brightest and purest. Today’s unique blend of Montònega and Garnatxa Blanca (Grenache Blanc) showcases his success to the highest degree: it’s such a brilliantly vibrant white that hits every corner of your mouth with refreshing waves of piquant fruit and crushed stones. One taste of this screaming value will forever throw away your doubts about Spanish whites: With Chenin Blanc level acidity, Chablis-like minerality, and a hint of salinity (just a dozen miles from the Mediterranean) “Teulera” throws a wide range of bone-dry, mouthwatering flavors your way at an extremely low price—even more impressive when factoring in Ernest’s small 400-case production.
While many of you have trained your brain to think of Cava when you hear Penedès, there are some exciting happenings in lesser-known towns here that deserve international attention. Ernest’s historic farm proudly showcases one of them: the remote hamlet of El Pla de Manlleu sits in the western reaches of the Penedès wine zone and is home to some truly indigenous varieties, like Sumoll Blanc—which can only be found in a handful of places—and today’s leading grape, Montònega. This mysterious variety is a high-quality clone of Parellada (looks like there is a connection to Cava after all!) that thrives in high-altitude climates—so it’s a good thing Ernest’s vineyards sit around 1500-2200 feet. For today’s bottling, 85% of Montònega drives the blend, with Garnatxa Blanca making up the remainder. These old, gnarled bush vines are farmed organically and grapes are always picked by hand. They ferment and briefly age in a combination of stainless steel and old oak barrels. The name “Teulera” is a nod to the red clay soils found here, which are widely used to make tile.
“Teulera” shines with a light-yellow core with platinum and bright green tones throughout. The nose is bright, fresh, and full of mineral panache. Expect just-picked white flowers and candied lime next to wet stones, crushed oyster shell, melon rind, grapefruit, and lemon blossoms. There is also a beguiling citrus-herb mix that alternates between cut Key lime and mountainous herbs. Truly, this is one of those wines that reveals a new note everytime you swirl. The palate is equally exciting: incredibly sharp and refreshing, with vibrant acidity and lingering fruit that prickles your taste buds. In two words: sheer freshness. I imagine this holding up over the next few years, but there is absolutely no need to wait. Let this flow around 50 degrees into an all-purpose glass and keep your remaining stock handy. This will go quickly, I assure you that. Match it up with some takeout nigiri or go the extra mile and prepare a traditional Catalan seafood dish: Suquet de Peix. Cheers!
