When describing Domaine du Clos du Fief, the perennial producer of Juliénas, no one does so better than Eric Asimov of The New York Times: “I have had the Julienas many times and it always makes me smile. It is infectiously joyous: bright, juicy, pure, earthy, and spicy.” And while Clos du Fief’s “Tradition” certainly hits all of those markers, the 2016 presents itself with slow-building power and seamless structure that is associated with far-pricier Burgundies.
Fear not, however, this is unquestionably Gamay at its soul—just one of the more pure and terroir-flecked examples you can find. Supreme examples, wines that define and consistently rank at the top of their region rarely come in at such a pretty price point. Domaine du Clos du Fief makes a bulletproof case for Juliénas, but it hasn’t come easily—they’ve preserved 100 uninterrupted years of tradition in their vineyards and cellar. This is why top Cru Beaujolais will never cease to amaze me: It strikes such a harmonius chord, from its perfumed nose to its profoundly classic Burgundian palate. Off the record, these gems can secretly age. If stored well, expect a beautiful surprise awaiting you in five, even ten years. So, the next time someone says value is dead in Burgundy, reveal Clos du Fief’s “Tradition” and let it speak for itself.
Francis Tête can be credited with the creation of the family farm in the early 1920s, which was handed down to his son, Raymond, in the 1940s. Raymond was a staunch advocate for the sale of their estate-bottled wines and was the first to sell them right out the cellar door. After several decades of vineyard expansion and increased production, Raymond then handed the operation to his own son, Michel. Under his ownership, the estate grew to 35 acres and it was officially labeled Domaine de Clos du Fief in 1988. More recently, his son, Sylvain, came aboard after his enological and viticultural studies—and countless years of cellar guidance under his father.
The village of Juliénas is the most northwesterly of the 10 Beaujolais “Crus” and one of the lesser-known, despite over 2,000 years of history and direct links to Julius Caesar! Generally speaking, there are fewer examples of Juliénas in our market in comparison to, say, Fleurie, Morgon, and Brouilly—which made us all the more delighted to find this impressive bottling. Michel and Sylvain’s vines are pushing past 50 years of age and are perched on gently sloping hillsides at 1200 feet. They lie in classic Granite-based soils blended with sand and clay atop volcanic bedrock. The grapes are hand picked following traditional farming methods throughout the growing year and undergo semi-carbonic maceration for ten hours in the winery. Following fermentation, the wine ages in a combination of stainless steel and large, neutral casks.
“Tradition” displays a deep, dark ruby core with slight purple reflections leading out to a bright magenta rim. The nose is unmistakably Beaujolais, but not overly fruity—it shows impressively bold aromas of rich flowers, spice, and earth alongside velvety, delicately ripe berries. Expect an enticing concoction of blackberry, rose petal, purple flowers, blueberry, fresh plums, crushed stones, black cherry, grape stems, and currants. The palate shows a wonderful balance of finesse, freshness, and serious structure that provides savory flavors and vibrant, brambly black-red fruits. Crushed rock minerality announces itself on a finish that lingers due to lifted acidity and ultra-smooth tannins. Juliénas is one of the ‘Crus’ that is known to age well and Michel and Sylvain Tete’s 2016 creation is no exception to that broad rule: either drink now with a quick 15-30 minute decant or let it rest in your cellar for 5-7 years. Pour into Burgundy stems and enjoy around 60 degrees with your Beaujolais and Pinot-loving friends. If you’re hungry, put together a charcuterie/cheese plate or try the attached pulled pork and blackberry barbecue sauce recipe. Really, the pairing possibilities are endless. Cheers!
