When only one barrel of a wine from a top producer is produced, chances are you won’t be receiving an allocation, let alone a bottle. I’ve chased after “Pure” since discovering it years ago, and we’ve finally received an extremely small allocation. Seeing as we only have a few cases to hand out, this is one of those “do it out of passion” offers. So why do we have so much passion for this particular bottle?
The Barrot family of Domaine La Barroche have a sandy, single-vineyard plot within striking distance of Château Rayas that actually precedes Rayas by decades—all of their vines here have passed the century mark with some dating back to the 1890s! Additionally, this super-limited Grenache bottling sees a long, unmanipulated élevage that can also be likened to Rayas. The only major differences between the two are production and price—“Pure” is only a one-barrel production costing fractions less than its legendary neighbor. This wine perfectly expresses the tough-to-master marriage of richness and finesse, and in this regard, “Pure” may be the most aptly named wine on the market. And, as with all things truly pure, only the smallest percentage of people will ever have the chance to experience it. Only two per person today.
The Barrot family’s time-honored mastery of Grenache is unparalleled: With grape-growing expertise dating to the 14th century and a terroir that has been passed from father to son for 315 uninterrupted years, Domaine La Barroche is one of the most pedigreed estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. And, while the Barrot family’s roots date back over 600 years, the modern-day domaine has seen a remarkable facelift: Proprietors and siblings Julien and Laetitia Barrot have held tradition firmly in place while homing in on pure wines of focus and unmitigated power. Julien’s arrival in 2002, however, set a new precedent: Today, all 36 estate-owned acres are farmed organically and cellar work has been tailored to complement the idiosyncrasies of each grape—Grenache being their most-treasured variety.
Patriarch Alexandre Barrot is credited with a 1703 land purchase that now comprises today’s Domaine La Barroche, but it wasn’t until the late-1800s that Eugène Gabriel Barrot studied and subsequently hand-selected pieces of land for vine planting. It’s these vines, planted around the start of the 20th century, that make their way into “Pure,” all of which are tended with incredible attention to detail: From bud pruning, green harvesting, and leaf thinning, to the handpicking and two rounds of grape sorting, Julien carefully crafts this wine with mindful vineyard and winemaking practices. In their ancient cellar, Grenache is fed into cement tanks and stays on its skins for four weeks during a spontaneous fermentation. After 18 months of aging in a single, 35-hectoliter barrel, the wine is bottled unfiltered. Everything is transferred via gravity.
Barroche’s 2014 “Pure” is simply amazing and has an intoxicating presence from start to finish. Drop-dead gorgeous aromas explode from the glass and the palate provides a rich and layered sensory experience. It pours a deep, nearly opaque dark ruby with slight pink and garnet highlights. Swirl and smell and you’ll discover an intense array of fruit, spice, herbs, and minerality fighting for your attention. Expect black cherry liqueur, a medley of plums, anise, preserved strawberries, raspberry blossoms, dried thyme and rosemary, purple flowers, garrigue, pepper, and a wonderful earthy/rocky mix. The full-bodied palate is fresh, intense, and mouthwateringly lush with high-toned notes of kirsch, herbs, and minerality. “Pure” showcases its velvety beauty best after a one hour decant, but anyone who wants to truly experience this wine to its fullest should keep their hands off until 2020 and beyond; I see it easily lasting 15-20 years. Consume around 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems alongside the attached Provençal beef daube—it’s hearty, rich, and the perfect addition to a cool-weather dinner party. Enjoy!
