Despite the stratospheric quality of his wines, Domaine du Clos des Rocs farmer-winemaker-owner Olivier Giroux does not share the work habits of some of his more well-heeled neighbors in Burgundy. He says, “It is just me here—I’m a peasant. I tend the vineyards. I make the wine. I take care of the marketing.” Olivier’s work ethic and dogged self reliance produce single vineyard wines of stunning purity and character while the absence of payroll or subcontracting at his small property means prices remain refreshingly low. Across the board, Clos des Rocs is bottling wines that are full of soil character and recall Burgundy’s golden era in the the 1960s and 1970s. 

Olivier Giroux was born, and developed an early interest in wine, in southern Burgundy’s Mâconnais region. Following university-level wine education and a decade spent honing his skills with large producers in the Rhône Valley, Olivier longed to return home to realize his dream of bottling white Burgundy. He believed the soft, rolling hills of his youth still remained more focused on soil and farming versus what he perceived as the Rhône’s preoccupation with technology and stylistic cellar decisions. Olivier’s extincts led him to one of the most obscure villages in all of Burgundy. The entire village appellation of Pouilly-Loché is a microscopic 32 hectares, and even though it has been recognized by the French government since 1940 and is a highly regarded growing zone, I don’t recall ever having seen a single bottle of wine labeled as Pouilly-Loché on a list or shelf in America. In short, this village—and Olivier’s property—is located well off Burgundy’s beaten path.

Fortunately for all of us, the obscurity of the Pouilly-Loché appellation meant that with his purchase of Domaine du Clos des Rocs in the mid 2000s, Olivier acquired an impressively diverse six-hectare collection of gorgeous, limestone-rich old-vine Chardonnay parcels for the price of what even a few rows in one of Burgundy’s more prestigious vineyards might cost. Olivier immediately set to transition all farming on the property to organics while renovating the cellar to prioritize cleanliness and efficiency over faddish technology and gimmickry. With the US debut of his wines four years ago, it became immediately clear Clos des Rocs deserved a place in the top tier of estates in southern Burgundy. These are nuanced and classically styled wines that perfectly articulate the region’s unique and inimitable character.

Olivier’s “Clos des Rocs - Monopole” hails from a walled, 70-year-old single vineyard that sits just next to his cellar. This ancient, east-facing site is composed of limestone pebbles and rich clay, making it a dream terroir for white Burgundy. I’ve enjoyed bottles of all Olivier’s wines recently but his single cru Les Mures and today’s wine are my hands-down favorites. Today’s “Clos des Rocs - Monopole” is a convincing replica of top Premier Cru Chassagne Montrachet. Aromas of yellow apple, lemon blossom, honey, white mushroom, oyster shell and toasted nuts each take their turn soloing before returning to the ensemble. This wine’s palate is remarkably integrated and harmonious—it has not one single hard edge or misplaced detail. The aromas, texture and finish are all in perfect balance. This wine is in top form today but I’m optimistic that it will continue to evolve and become more mysterious over the next 8-11 years. If enjoying it tonight, I encourage you to decant for one hour before serving in large Burgundy stems at 55-60 degrees. The longer the exposure to air and more time it has to warm to room temperature, the more alive its aromas will become. This is a thoroughly classic wine but I’m going to encourage you to enjoy it with a left-of-center pairing as I did last night. This sweetbread “piccata” recipe is a rustic counterpoint to this fine-tuned wine. I can’t wait for you to enjoy them together. Cheers!