Gilbert and Christine Felettig’s special micro-production bottling is, quite simply, a standout Burgundy that should be considered an “insider” wine. They have shrewdly acquired tiny parcels of vines neighboring the greatest sites in Vosne-Romanée, allowing them to make a stunning wine mere footsteps from the trumpeted Grand Crus of “La Romanée,” “Richebourg,” and “La Tâche.”
Rarely can you find such proximity to the finest Grand Crus without paying hundreds, even thousands, of dollars; all the more reason today’s offer is an undercover luxury—though you won't see a designated vineyard on the label. In its place are three Premier Cru vineyards blended into one: “Aux Reignots,” “Les Petits Monts,” and “Les Chaumes,” all of which border the above Grand Crus, respectively. To take it a step further, the Felettigs’ minuscule holdings in these sites combine for a total of just over a half acre (!) and are farmed biodynamically—still an avant-garde philosophy in Burgundy and difficult to properly execute with the tetris-like subdivision of vineyards here. Factoring in their minimalist approach in the winery with their judicious combination of new French oak launches this to the apex of its class. It proudly stands among the finest Premier Cru bottlings in Vosne-Romanée and would easily disguise itself next to several Grand Crus. This is detailed Burgundy, handcrafted with the utmost care and will happily age over the next two decades. Total bottle production is in the hundreds and we received a diminutive fraction of that—just a few cases. For that reason, we must limit everyone to no more than two today.
In 1965, Henri Felettig inherited a few acres of vines and blackcurrants from his parents and less than a decade later, he and his wife, Reine, established their own winery. Their son and daughter, Gilbert and Christine, began working alongside them a few decades later— Gilbert was only 18 when he started—and eventually took over for their parents in the early 2000s. They soon began farming organically and some plots (like today’s) are reserved for biodynamic farming. Their philosophy is pure: “At Domaine Felettig, we like to keep things simple. We do not make wine, we simply try to transform into wine what mother nature gives us: grapes.” They manage roughly 100 individual plots throughout their ~30 acres of owned and rented vines. This can make it quite tough to farm naturally, but in their eyes it’s necessary, no matter the difficulties (or costs) involved.
Once again, the Felettigs’ holdings throughout these three Premier Crus are minimal: “Aux Reignots” (.25 acres), “Les Petits Monts” (.22 acres), and “Les Chaumes” (.1 acres). Soils here are largely limestone and clay with pebbles. They follow biodynamic practices in these parcels year round and hand-harvested grapes are twice-sorted in both the vineyard and winery. Only natural yeasts are used and after fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks; the wine is then gently racked into ~50% new French oak for 16 months before being bottled without fining or filtration.
In the glass, the wine shows a deep ruby core with slight garnet hues bordering the rim. The nose reveals classic Vosne-Romanée aromatics, full of high-toned wild flowers, preserved strawberry, black cherry, dried goji berry, red plums, wet stones, cacao, underbrush, dried mushroom, and delicately woven oak spices—vanilla, clove, cinnamon. There is a seamless purity of dense fruit and minerality on the palate with velvety tannins that are well-integrated into the wine’s freshness. Though this is a wine of elegance and refinement, there is a mouth-coating, full-bodied feel (especially for Burgundy) that is immediately followed by a lingering finish with substantial lift. Though it is approaching its best years—it’s ideal drinking window will begin around 2020—this will age gracefully over the next 15-20 years, easy. If drinking sooner rather than later, decant for one hour before consuming in large Burgundy stems around 60-65 degrees. I’m apt to pair Burgundy with duck, but for a slight variation try a pan-seared rendition and I guarantee you won’t have any misgivings after your first bite. Enjoy!
