On occasion, I am simply floored during a tasting. That moment when a producer you had no idea existed, from a lesser-known appellation, performs with wines 2-3 times its price from more-famous regions. Nothing gives me more satisfaction than uncovering Burgundies like this, and at this price, the question isn’t “Should I go outside my comfort zone and give it a try?” but rather “How much can I fit?”
We’ve offered some fantastic white Burgundy values from the Chardonnay-heavy appellation of Rully (located about 20 minutes south of Volnay), but today it’s Pinot Noir taking center stage. This is Domaine Gouffier’s first appearance on SommSelect (and in most of America, for that matter) and it is a perfect example of how to buy red Burgundy in this increasingly inflated market—namely, you have to “kiss a few frogs,” as we say around here, en route to a wine like today’s 2015 from Gouffier. If this Pinot bore a better-known appellation name there’s no telling what it might cost, and if I were attempting to identify it ‘blind’ I might be tempted to call it 1er Cru Chambolle-Musigny—there is some Chambolle-like perfume and elegance here, but also power and youthful vigor from the celebrated 2015 vintage. It is the kind of red Burgundy I want to have around in quantity, so I can reassure my Burgundy-loving friends that first-class reds can be had at reasonable prices. If you love to drink red Burgundy, do not miss this.
Despite several name changes, Domaine Gouffier had a family history here that spanned the course of 200 years, until the recent death of Jerome Gouffier. The family then turned to Frédéric Gueugneau for succession. Growing up, Frédéric, or Fred, was a near-neighbor to them and had spent many a seasons assisting at Domaine Gouffier. When he was informed Jerome had fallen ill, he left his winery position in Chablis and returned home to lend a helping hand. When Jerome did finally pass, Frédéric assumed full responsibility of the domaine in 2011. Since then, he and his business partner have adopted organic practices and a hands-off, but strict approach in the winemaking process—a prime example: In 2013, they chose not to release any of their red wines because they simply weren’t 100% pleased with them. You won’t find that type of discipline for most other, if any, Burgundy wines in the $30-something range.
Rully is a small village within the northern part of Côte Chalonnaise that nearly reaches the southern tip of Côte de Beaune—due to its proximity, the appellation is largely known for its white wine production. So, when a high-quality producer makes wines of the opposite color, it’s bound to pique my interest. Within Rully, the organically-farmed parcels of Meix de Pellerey are eastward facing and comprised of limestone and friable clay/sand soils. Grapes are harvested by hand and carefully sorted. They are 80% destemmed and a barrel fermentation is triggered by indigenous yeasts—paraphrasing what Fred said to the Burgundy-Report of using natural yeasts: “It takes however long it takes.” Only one cooper is employed for their oak barrel needs—Doreau Tonneliers of Cognac—and they know them personally, as they make multiple visits each year to see which barrel would respond best to each wine. The wine aged in French oak (33% new) for 12 months before being bottled unfiltered.
2015 “Meix de Pellerey” flaunts a dark crimson core with hints of ruby along the rim. Right off the bat, you’ll be met with concentration and highly perfumed black/red fruit, which hints at the clarity of fruit found in top Oregon wines, but the savory, mineral depth that follows whisks you right into Burgundy. Notes of black cherry liqueur, ripe blackberry, raspberry, wild strawberry, and a kiss of blueberry are followed by a band of purple and red flowers, black mushrooms, anise, black tea, forest floor and nuanced baking spice; there is a sense of exoticism here. On the palate, the entry is delicious and rich with a solid core of dense fruit that is perfectly framed with acidic freshness and soft tannic structure. This is one to savor now, though it will keep effortlessly over the next 3-5 years and beyond. When consuming, simply allow the wine to open up in your large Burgundy stems around 60 degrees or give it a brief 15 minute decant, if desired. My immediate thought for this pairing: Shanghainese braised pork belly—do some searching around your local Asian market for the ingredients and enjoy yourself at the dinner table!
