It’s true, 2008 seems to be one of those magical vintages that producers swoon over: It’s being compared to greats like 1990 and 1996. I’m inclined to agree. Already, the wine is showing hints of development and fully expressing the depth and power of the vintage.
I can say, with conviction, that a promising future lies ahead of this wine. Huré Frères has been on my list for a long time and is a Champagne label I constantly find myself revisiting, on those rare occasions when it can be spotted on an American wine list. “Instantanée” is a rich, robust, yet elegant Champagne that always speaks clearly of the vintage at hand and their 2008 is the best I’ve tried from them. It’s an immense pleasure now and will only improve with time. As always, however, we didn’t get much, so we must limit purchases to 6 bottles per customer until it disappears.
Although not technically a “grower-producer,” everything Huré Frères does—from philosophy to farming to production—reflects a grower mentality. The operation was formed over a half-century ago by Jeanne and Georges Huré, who later handed it off to their three sons, and Huré Frères was officially born. Brothers Jean-Marie, Marc and Raoul successfully ran and expanded the business from 1971 until 2008, when Raoul’s wine-educated and world-traveled sons, François and Pierre, took the helm. They are lovers of biodynamic principles and mirror a Burgundian mindset that you’re guaranteed to notice in their wine.
“Instantanée” was mostly sourced from three different Premier Cru villages: Ludes, Rilly-la-Montagne and Villedommange. Ludes (home base of Huré Frères) and Rilly-la-Montagne are in the northern part of horseshoe-shaped Montagne de Reims and are largely planted to Pinot Noir, followed by Chardonnay, in clay-chalk soils with limestone. The epicenter of Reims lies directly north of both villages and, if heading due east, you’ll be met with the Grand Cru village of Mailly-Champagne. Villedommange is one of the most northern Premier Crus in all of Champagne and lies in the Ardre Valley, which stretches west of Reims. Pinot Meunier is king here because soils tend to be finer, consisting of clay, sand and marl blends.
Although not organic, Huré Frères follows strict sustainable practices from vine to bottle and selects from massale vineyards—essentially plots that have been replanted with cuttings from the best-performing vines. After harvesting from these different sites, the final blend for 2008 “Instantanée” was 35% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 30% Pinot Meunier. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation and aged on its lees for a minimum six years sur latte (on its side) with additional resting post-disgorgement. Labeled as an Extra Brut, dosage was a very light 3 grams of sugar, creating an exceptionally bone-dry style.
The 2008 reveals a deep golden color, hinting at its prolonged lees aging and powerful style. On the nose, it’s rich style is immediately apparent, giving notes of white cherry, yellow plum, candied lemon, grilled toast, brioche, yellow flowers, honey, crushed chalk and white mushroom. Thanks to the substantial percentage of Pinot Meunier, the fruit comes across ebullient and youthful with just a hint of spiciness. Medium-plus bodied with power and density, it is textbook vintage Champagne—a perfect snapshot of 2008. The Meunier fruit is ripe and the Pinot Noir is robust, but the Chardonnay provides a bolt of acid and elegance. At nearly 10 years old, it’s reaching perfect maturity and will be absolutely stunning over the next 3-5 years. I have no doubt this will reach 2030 and beyond if stored properly. This should be served at 55-60 degrees in all-purpose white stems. Perhaps try serving a tad colder and allow it to warm and blossom in your glass. For the ultimate food pairing, whip up the attached recipe.
