Goisot's home terroir has a storied past. From the 11th to 14th century, Benedictine monks roamed its vineyards making wine. The region, which was formerly a part of Chablis, was highly celebrated until the 19th century, when phylloxera demolished years of harvests and Chablis winemakers whose vines weren’t ruined declassified the appellation to save their own reputations. Years later, winemakers fought back. Convinced their wine and land was worthy of AOC recognition, seventh-generation winemaker Jean-Hugues Goisot argued that they were making fantastic wine in land rich with the same Kimmeridigian limestone and chalk as Chablis (which is just 15 kilometers northeast) with some of the strictest growing regulations around. In 1993, the Burgundian Auxerre hills were provided AOC Côtes d’Auxerre status for Pinot Noir, and the tiny Saint Bris sub-region was granted AOC in 2003 for Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Goisot, largely the impetus for those recent AOCs, quickly became a top star in the region.

Even beyond their devotion to the appellation, it’s not surprising why Jean-Hugues and his son Guilhem Goisot are revered. They’re inspiring. Working tirelessly to make the best wines possible even before their AOCs were legitimized, the Goisots religiously devoted themselves to sustainable and attentive vineyard management and natural winemaking. They’ve been organic since 1993 and are now certified biodynamic. Plus they often have yields lower than Chablis. In their 14th century wine cellar, whose stone stairs have rope lines from where barrels were for years dragged from below to ground level, Jean-Hugues and Guilhem take a hands-off approach. Natural yeast ferments this Pinot Noir harvested from ten to thirty year-old vines, and the Goisots minimally filter. Their aim is to let the land and vintage shine, which is great news for 2014, a refined and elegant alternative to 2015’s ripe and heady fruit. Although the 2014 was hit by another legendary hail storm in June, a long and warm summer breathed freshness into Burgundy, and the vintage was lauded for its beautiful reds. It’s a challenge to find 2014 Pinot Noir that over-delivers at a price and I’m ecstatic to bring it to you.

Put your nose in the glass and within a split second you’ll know you’re drinking a wine from a dedicated vigneron. From an expressive and cooler part of Burgundy, this wine is driven by wildflowers, with notes of wet rose petals, forest floor, damp leaves, red currant, wild strawberry, sour cherry, and rhubarb. There is no question that you’re drinking red Burgundy here. The Côtes d’Auxerre is elegant and savory, showing crushed stones and limestone. It has a palate similar to the nose, and a beautiful freshness and medium body. Like most young red Burgundies, it needs air. Temperature is key (if served too warm, it’ll lose balance). I’d serve in Burgundy stems just above cellar temp —55 to 65—and decant for 30 minutes. You can stash cases of this Pinot Noir in the cellar and forget about them for a decade, but this wine is good now and will be even better in two to three years.

This wine lends itself to many cuisines, but my instincts say pair with duck breast with rhubarb and duck fat potatoes, peking duck, or coq au vin if drinking on a cooler night. Fresh and floral for summer yet savory enough for sipping stashed bottles in winter. Cheers!