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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru

Burgundy, France 2013 (750mL)
Regular price$159.00
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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru

This small parcel of Grand Cru red Burgundy comes with a word of the day: onomatopoeia (don’t ask me how to pronounce it properly). Onomatopoeia is when a word’s pronunciation imitates its sound—like “buzz,” or “clap.” Sometimes wines are ‘onomatopoeic’ (oh boy) in that they occasionally taste like they sound (not a precise application of the word but hopefully you see where I’m going here).
Italy’s Barolo is one that comes to mind: “Barolo” sounds kind of dark, brooding, even a little ominous…quite like the wines, actually. I get the same vibe when I hear “Bonnes-Mares”—on sound alone I know it portends something serious. I think you’ll agree when you taste this 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from the impeccable Domaine Drouhin-Laroze. Wines like this should come with their own musical score, or be announced by the voice actor who does all those “In a world…” movie trailers.
The 15-hectare Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is in the village of Chambolle-Musigny, with a tiny portion of it spilling over into neighboring Morey-St-Denis. Split among some 30 different owners, it sits at about 300 meters elevation, with a very thin, pebbly clay/flint topsoil over a dense limestone base. Planted exclusively to Pinot Noir, it is known for dark, densely concentrated reds—and on this score, Drouhin-Laroze’s 2013 does not disappoint: Sourced from the domaine’s 1.5-hectare piece of Bonnes-Mares, this extremely sexy bottling was aged in 80% new French oak for 18 months, and yet it is hardly driven by oak. It is driven by perfect ripeness and profound minerality.

Drouhin-Laroze, based in Gevrey-Chambertin, boasts one of the more impressive collections of vineyard holdings in the Côte de Nuits, owing to its long history. Jean-Baptiste Laroze first worked the soils of Gevrey-Chambertin back in 1850. His granddaughter, Suzanne Laroze, married Alexandre Drouhin, and combined her Gevrey holdings with his Chambolle-Musigny vineyards and the Domaine Drouhin-Laroze name was born. Today, 166 years after Jean-Baptiste founded the Domaine, the family business is run by sixth-generation Philippe and Christine Drouhin, who have drastically reduced yields and worked to craft wine in pristine conditions with traditional practices. 

Their 2013 Bonnes-Mares is a knockout. It is a saturated ruby-red moving to garnet at the rim, with assertive aromas of black currant, black cherry, baking spices, leather, and a very deep forest floor/underbush note that offers a nice counterpoint to the rich, almost sappy fruit. It is luscious and full-bodied on the palate, with enough tannic grip to hold all of the extract in place. And while it will age with ease for a decade or more, it was extremely seductive after about an hour in a decanter. Drink it slowly, in your biggest Burgundy stems, at 60-65 degrees. The food pairing suggestion from the domaine itself was too good not to share—they suggest “wildfowl in a vigneronne sauce,” which I’m going to go ahead and simplify to coq au vin. If you’re got a special occasion on the horizon, this wine should do quite nicely indeed. It’s even better than it sounds!
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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