A wine that you open alone and it’s gone in 45 minutes….you don’t know how it happened, but you still want more. Sound familiar? Aw c’mon, yes it does. This offer is one of “those” wines—an affordable, off-appellation over-achiever full of energy, personality, and utter drinkability.
Domaine Goisot’s 2013 “Les Mazelots” hails from the outer-borough Burgundy appellation of Irancy, located just southwest of Chablis—one of the most northerly Pinot Noir growing zones in France and a sommelier ‘flash-card’ candidate if there ever was one. Goisot’s Irancy enjoys an underground cult following among vignerons and sommeliers, the kind of lesser-known gem that turns up on Michelin-starred French restaurant lists. The 2013 Les Mazelots is sourced from 97-year-old vines that are organically and biodynamically farmed in Kimmeridgian limestone, creating a Pinot Noir of pristine red fruit, life, personality, freshness and beautiful texture. It delivers everything one could want in a bottle of red Burgundy and is one of the best values in France—but sadly, we only have a tiny amount of this wine.
Irancy’s wine history dates back to 2nd century AD when the Romans treasured these lands long before the “Cote d’Or” was even a thing. The Goisot family led the movement to return the appellation, once ravaged by phylloxera and nearly forgotten, to its former glory. Irancy attained AOC status in 1999, and while it remains an outlier in the world of Burgundy Pinot Noir, its unique situation has not gone unnoticed—especially by savvy buyers on the lookout for value. Located in the Yonne départment, which is most famous for Chablis, Irancy sits in an amphitheatre-like valley that faces southwest, protecting it from harsh cold and wind and providing a hospitable terroir for ripening Pinot even this far north.
Rated in the top three producers of greater Chablis by Les Meilleurs Vins de France, which is considered by many to be France’s leading wine guide, the Goisots are mentioned in the same breath as superstar producers like Vincent Dauvissat. Jean-Hughes Goisot, his wife Ghislaine, and their son, Guilhelm, have achieved this through serious dedication in the vineyards. Surrounded by fragrant cherry trees and rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone and marl, the Goisots farm about a half-hectare in the lieu-dit (named vineyard) Les Mazelots, employing organic and biodynamic treatments. The exceptional vine age keeps yields naturally low, and winemaking is seriously minimalist thanks to their tireless efforts in the fields. The fruit is destemmed, macerated for 3-4 weeks and is fermented with only indigenous yeasts. The wine is racked to predominantly neutral French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and is aged on its fine lees for 10-16 months. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered, the result being perhaps the deepest expression of Irancy on the market.
The 2013 Les Mazelots exhibits a deep ruby core with pink reflections on the rim. The nose reveals highly perfumed aromatics of red cherry, strawberry, and red currant laced with an enchanting array of dried roses, grape stems, white tea, fresh lavender, sage and crushed white rocks. On the palate it darts and dances, a medium-bodied Pinot with quenching acidity that finishes with unforgettable mineral verve—you can’t help but return for glass after glass, and you shouldn’t feel at all self-conscious if you polish the bottle off yourself! Plan ahead and pull the cork on this bottle 2-3 hours before serving. If pressed for time, decant for 30 minutes instead and serve in Burgundy stems between 60-65 degrees. This wine will dazzle alongside chicken or roast duck, but we recommend this
Alpine Rabbit Stew over Polenta.