SommSelect subscribers are by now well-acquainted with grower Champagne legend Egly-Ouriet. This impeccable house is the vinous equivalent of a blue-chip stock. It is also a rather small organic farm, which makes it that much more appealing: At this point Egly is regarded as one of Champagne’s ‘grandes marques,’ and not just among its smaller-scale 'récoltant-manipulant' brethren.
We recently secured a small parcel of their sumptuous 2006 Millésime Grand Cru Brut, and we’re thrilled to share it with you. This is about as good as Champagne gets, but our allocation sadly gets smaller and smaller each year as the demand for these wines skyrockets.
This is Pinot Noir-driven Champagne at its handcrafted best, from the famed Grand Cru village of Ambonnay. When fourth-generation vigneron Francis Egly took the reins from his father, Michel, back in 1980, organic farming was far from fashionable in Champagne. Nevertheless, Francis sidestepped the path of least resistance and transformed the already respected estate into a powerful ‘brand’ as well. Organic treatments, manual plowing, and incredibly low yields define the estate’s approach in the vineyards, and this dedication is met with thoughtful, non-interventionist winemaking in the cellar. Egly’s powerhouse lineup is characterized by extended lees aging and low dosage, creating wines that not only delight but speak to the soil.
The 2006 Grand Cru Millésime Brut is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, derived from vines that are a minimum of 50 years of age, lending the wine immense concentration. Only the first press of the pristine grapes is used for this wine. Malolactic fermentation is blocked in the cellar (to preserve acidity) and the fruit is aged in only 25% new French oak barrels. While the AOP aging requirements for vintage Champagne is 3 years, Francis ages the Millésime for a staggering 8 years on its lees! With only 2 grams per liter of dosage, it is at once opulent and bone dry, with great “cut.”
In the glass, the golden core moves to darker green and golden reflections on the rim while incredibly small bubbles battle their way through the viscous liquid, which immediately indicates this Champagne’s immense concentration upon sight. The highly complex nose reveals über-concentrated aromas of white mushroom, truffle, preserved yellow apple, preserved yellow plums, dried red currant, dried red cherry and a hint of dried peach laced with notes of honey, rising brioche, white flowers, almonds, and cream. To smell this wine is a joy in and of itself—it evolves every minute it’s in the glass. Highly viscous, with luscious weight on the palate, this full-bodied Champagne flaunts its Grand Cru personality and delivers precisely what one expects from one of the world’s greatest growers at a decade of age (and then some!). This is a Champagne to share with the greatest of friends alongside a memorable main course. It will dazzle alongside chicken or rabbit, but we highly recommend this inspired
recipe for Veal Prince Orloff for an evening at home you will never forget.