The word “traditional” means many different things to many different people. But for me, in Burgundy, the definition is both simple and specific: traditional red Burgundy must communicate soil character and vintage, above all else. In recent decades, there has been a general trend of modern technology and cellar technique producing ever softer, younger-drinking and more fruit-driven red Burgundy. This focus on the technology of winemaking has diluted the region’s historic terroir and centuries-old tradition - and in doing so, it has robbed many Burgundy newcomers of the pleasure of enjoying wines that require time in the cellar before transforming into something magical. So, when I try to turn clients and friends on to Burgundy, I stick to a short list of trusted and arch-traditionalist families; Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy is a reliable and deeply sentimental favorite. This family works exclusively in Gevrey-Chambertin and has earned a reputation for capturing the essence of this world-famous village in every bottle. They accomplish this by organically hand-farming many top parcels in the village, and by keeping their work in the cellar extraordinarily simple. The end result is one of the most terroir-driven, quintessential red Burgundies that money can buy. To enjoy this bottle is to lose yourself in a deep, truly soulful wine and to be reminded of why the Grand Crus of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits are regarded as the top Pinot Noir vineyards on Earth.

While Domaine Harmand Geoffroy produces ten separate single-vineyard bottlings each year, the Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru is undisputedly the family’s top wine. The grapes come from the family’s .75-hectare parcel in this historic vineyard - one of the single most important vineyards in all of Burgundy - and are hand-harvested and destemmed before fermenting for 2-3 weeks. The wine is then racked into mostly neutral small French oak barrels where it rests for a year and a half prior to bottling, without fining or filtration. In short, there are no frills or gadgetry in this cellar - just simplicity, patience, and the kind of knowledge and expertise that is passed down across generations of the same family working the same land.

We have offered two other excellent wines from Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy over the last few years, but this bottle is on a completely different level - it’s an instant classic. In the glass, this 2008 Harmand Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a translucent crimson core moving to light garnet and orange reflections on the rim. The nose possesses ornate detail - perfectly defined dark raspberry fruit, dried black cherries, Moroccan fruit cake, and citrus blossoms, sitting atop a brooding foundation of black tea, black truffles, iron-rich clay and a touch of sweet pipe tobacco. As always with Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy, there is an undercurrent of meatiness and brawn that serves as a wonderful counterpoint to the wine’s “prettier” characteristics. The texture on the palate is silky and the typical, often rustic structure found in Gevrey has melted away with time. This wine is perfectly mature and ready to drink right now. Still, I strongly encourage you to open this bottle for 90 minutes before serving in a large Burgundy stem at just above cellar temperature. From my own recent experience, I can promise that it will over-deliver for many hours thereafter. I found it absolutely mesmerizing on its own; this is a layered mouthful of a wine that requires no specific cuisine to unveil what makes it special. That said, I can think of no better companion than this preparation of Rabbit braised in red wine. It’s not a classic Burgundian dish, but it’s a brilliant, rustic dish with which to showcase this incredible wine. Cheers!