Although new to the United States, Domaine Julien’s roots date to the late-1800’s when François Xavier Julien first purchased land in Comblanchien and Nuits-Saint-Georges. The estate was expanded after World War II by François’ son, Armand, and grew even more under his son, Gérard, to its current 10 hectares. Today, fourth-generation vigneron and Gérard’s son, Étienne Julien, has taken the reins and has pushed the envelope of quality even further. Étienne farms his vineyards lutte raisonnée, which translates to ‘reasoned fight’ and entails strict organic practices unless an extreme emergency arises in a particularly difficult vintage. 

The appellation of Côte de Nuits-Villages comprises five villages that span the length of the Côte d’Or, including the northern villages of Fixin and Brochon as well as the southern villages of Comblanchien, Corgoloin, and Prissey. Domaine Julien’s Côte de Nuits-Villages hails entirely from the family’s historic vineyards in the village of Comblanchien. Offering fascinating history as well as terroir-driven wines, Comblanchien was a seat of the French Resistance during World War II and was also the source of fine marble that was used to construct such famous landmarks as the Paris Opera. Domaine Julien’s Côte de Nuits-Villages offers a unique sense of place in the glass and is comprised of pristine fruit from only this unique village.

 

One of the most stunning expressions of the lesser-known village you will ever experience, yields are lower than they have ever been on the Domaine Julien estate, resulting in maximum concentration of varietal purity and expression of terroir. Couple that with the average age of 50-year-old vines and you have something spectacular on your hands. The hand-harvested fruit is sorted in the vineyards as well as the cellar, then entirely destemmed. After a maceration of a few days and nominal, twice-daily punch-downs with gentle pump-overs, the wine is then fermented in concrete tanks. The wine is racked and aged in 50% enamel-lined tanks and 50% in 25% new French 228-liter oak barrels for fourteen months. The precise blend of aging vessels maintains freshness and delivers a wine with a pristine sense of place and expression of Pinot Noir. The traditionally crafted wine offers a profound sensory journey that is a relative steal for the quality found in the glass.

 

The 2013 Côte de Nuits Villages displays a beautiful, concentrated dark ruby core with light garnet hues on the rim. The opaque center of the glass leads me to believe the wine was bottled without fining or filtration, which is only further confirmed by the true sense of place that wafts from the glass. The nose is alive and full of personality without any trace of funk that can appear with some Burgundies. Classic aromatics of slightly dried wild strawberry, black cherry, hibiscus, wet rose petal, forest floor, wet ferns, and a touch of black tea are infused with that all-encompassing Burgundian umami-laden perfume. The medium-bodied palate boasts stunning sweetness of fruit and is wound inside flavors of underbrush, tea leaves, and crushed stones, which translates to the ideal balance of fruit and earth complexity. When I enjoyed this wine recently, it was singing within 5-7 minutes. I would advise avoiding a decanter unless this wine is shy to open. For instant gratification, enjoy between 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems alongside Jacques Pepin’s classic Duck à l’Orange.