The southernmost region of Champagne, the Aube lies along the banks of the Seine River and has Kimmeridgian limestone soils, complete with fossilized seashells, which are often found in the great vineyards of neighboring Chablis. The small Grower-Producer, Serge Mathieu, have been vignerons in Avirey-Lingey since 1760 and boasts seven generations that have tilled the soil. Serge Mathieu began working the vineyards of the Aube’s Côte des Bars alongside his father in 1959 and helmed his first vintage in 1970. In 1987, Serge’s daughter, Isabelle, joined the family ranks, then brought Michel Jacob into the fold after their wedding in 1996. Today, Isabelle and Michel continue to uphold the family’s reputation as world-class or grower-producers.
Their Mathieu vineyards are planted to 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Michel’s approach in the vineyard may lack a label, mainly an organic approach, but ample care is used on the vines, including cover crops and plowing, to ensure the healthiest fruit and a thriving ecosystem. I basically attempt to steer the earth towards its natural balance. The aim of all this work is not to acquire a logo or a certificate, but to respect the final product, the consumer, and the land, explains Michel. Their terroir-driven Brut Rosé is manually harvested then pressed by parcel in a pneumatic press. The final blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay undergoes climate-controlled fermentation and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel then some of the wine is transferred to enamel tanks. The wine’s filtration, sulfur, and dosage is quite minimal. This beauty ages on its lees for a minimum of three years before disgorgement. The result is a terroir-driven beauty of perfect balance and stunning tension.
This wine exhibits a very pale ruby core with a hint of salmon and pink on the rim with small concentrated bubbles. The focused, fragrant nose enchants with aromas of pomegranate, kaffir lime, redcurrant, wet roses, wildflowers, crushed seashells, lees and a hint of wet rocks. On the palate the wine is dry, driven by earth and lifted by bright acidity and beautiful tension. Flavors of wet roses, red cherry, pomegranate, redcurrant, lemon and kaffir lime are intricately woven together by finely crushed limestone minerality elevates the entire sensory experience. Delicious now, this wine will shine at its brightest over the next few years. To enjoy, simply pull from the fridge, pull the cork, then allow the wine to rise gently in temperature for fifteen minutes before serving in all-purpose white wine stems. The wine will quickly shed a touch of carbon dioxide, then show perfectly. This is an ideal bottle to kick off any evening and is an inspired choice with a variety of cuisine. For an ideal pairing on a hot summer evening, serve alongside this
arugula salad with pomegranate and goat cheese and feel free to top it off with poached salmon, and make it the main course.