Paul Déthune is a Récoltant-Manipulant, or a grower-producer, which means that they own, farm and handcraft wines solely from their own estate. While major champagne houses, (or Négociant-Manipulants), may craft wines from as many as 100 farmers, a grower-producer controls every aspect of farming and winemaking. Although we relish drinking a tête de cuvée from a grand old Champagne house, our hearts truly belong to the small grower-producers - the true artisans like Paul Déthune. The Déthunes have been farming and crafting champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889. Quite possibly the most famous Grand Cru village for Pinot Noir, it is here that the varietal reveals its most intense expression. The soil delivers chalk, limestone and clay-limestone soils that lend Pinot Noir its signature minerality and a terroir that translates to rich, opulent champagne of perfect balance.
Paul’s son, Pierre Déthune, and his wife, Sophie, took over operations from Paul in 1999. Since that time, they have started producing sustainable energy for their family winery and have updated the facility with state-of-the-art equipment. A true grower-producer, Paul Déthune owns, farms, and crafts fine Champagne from their seven treasured hectares in Ambonnay. Their organically farmed vineyards boast over 2,000 years of history and many of the vines are over 40 years old. This Extra Brut Champagne is an idyllic blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay that consists of 30-50% reserve wine, which lends elegant, mature characteristics to the already stunning sensory experience. The pristine, hand-harvested organic fruit is fermented and aged in 205-liter French oak barriques that range in age from one to 25 years. The Extra Brut has a low 5 grams per liter of dosage, which lends the ideal weight and texture while simultaneously delivering immense freshness and a clear snapshot of Ambonnay’s distinct terroir.
The Paul Déthune Extra Brut Champagne exhibits a beautiful golden hue with slight green reflections on the rim and displays fine beading. Showing divine notes of maturity, it is apparent this cuvee is a productive of some older vintages. The multifaceted nose wafts from the glass with heavenly aromas of cherry brioche, white mushroom, lemon zest, fresh cream, fresh white wildflowers and a touch of hazelnut over focused oyster shell and crushed chalk. The relatively full-bodied palate offers density and slightly oily texture for an extra brut, along with incredible freshness that unfolds to reveal poised red fruit that moves into elegant flavors of rising bread dough, lemon zest and curd, then finishes with inimitable sea shell and crushed stone minerality with the lift only champagne can muster. This aromatically divine champagne should not be served too cold or poured in tall, thin champagne flutes! For best results, serve in open-mouthed champagne glasses, Riesling stems or even all-purpose stems to experience the vast array of complexity it can offer. Simply remove from the refrigerator and open 15-20 minutes prior to serving. This stunning bottle of artisanally crafted champagne delivers immense quality for the price and will shine
alongside salmon on the grill or all on its own.