Paul Déthune is a Récoltant-Manipulant (“RM” can be seen at the bottom of the label), or a grower-producer, which means that they own, farm and craft wines solely from their own estate. While major champagne houses, or Négociant-Manipulants, may craft wines by purchasing the grapes (or finished wine) from as many as 100 farmers, a “grower-producer” controls every aspect of farming and winemaking and must farm 95% of the fruit from vineyards they own. Although we relish drinking a tête de cuvée from a grand old Champagne house, our hearts truly belong to the small grower-producers—the true artisans like Paul Déthune. The Déthunes have been farming and crafting champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889. One of the most famous Grand Cru village for Pinot Noir, it is here that the varietal reveals its most intense expression. The soil delivers chalk, limestone and clay-limestone soils that lend Pinot Noir its signature minerality and a terroir that translates to rich, opulent champagnes of perfect balance.
Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, own, farm and craft fine Champagne from their seven, treasured hectares in Ambonnay, which they tend organically. Although technically a non-vintage champagne, this Blanc de Noirs Brut comes from one vintage and is from a special, single-vineyard, Les Crayeres. The vines are over forty years old, and the site has 2000 years of history. From a truly special parcel in the village, this wine is derived from 100% Pinot Noir. The pristine, organic fruit is fermented and aged in 205-liter French oak barriques that range in age from one to 25 years. Only 5,000 bottles of this magnificent wine are made, and demand around the world is quite high. The result is a serious Champagne with rich, mouth-coating texture that performs at a much higher price point than what is revealed in the bottle.
This Blanc de Noir exhibits a beautiful light golden hue with slight green reflections on the rim and displays fine beading that slowly traverses the viscous liquid. Showing divine notes of maturity, it is apparent this cuvée is a product of some older wine. The multifaceted nose wafts from the glass with aromas of cherry brioche, white mushroom, lemon zest, fresh cream, fresh white wildflowers, a touch of hazelnut, subtle spice from pink peppercorn and turmeric over focused oyster shell and crushed chalk. The relatively full-bodied palate is dense satisfying with poised red fruit that moves into elegant flavors of rising bread dough, lemon zest and curd. It finishes with sea shell and crushed stone minerality with the lift only champagne can muster. This aromatically divine champagne should not be served too cold or poured in tall, thin champagne flutes! For best results, serve in an open-mouthed champagne glass, Riesling stems or even all-purpose stems to experience the vast array of complexity. Simply remove from the refrigerator and open twenty minutes before serving. I enjoy allowing the bubbles to dissipate in one glass slowly over 45 minutes—after the bubbles leave the wine, the expression is almost reminiscent of a great bottle of white Burgundy. Whatever your preference, this is a stunning bottle of artisanally crafted champagne that delivers immense quality for the price. As I have advised before, rich Champagne and Fried Chicken is one of the greatest pairings ever. Try
this recipe from Thomas Keller for an incredible experience.