The Premier Cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne is located in the Montagne de Reims region. It is in this special pocket of Champagne that the three allowed grapes for Champagne (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay) achieve ideal ripeness and deliver a delicate and totally elegant expression. From one of the oldest producing villages in the Champenois, just next door to today’s boutique estate lies the famous Champagne house of Vilmart. Lecompte shares the same distinct calcareous clay and limestone soils as its more famous neighbor and delivers an unbelievable price-to-quality for their Premier Cru Rosé. Unlike major Champagne houses, François Lecompte is a récoltant-manipulant, which is indicated by the initials, “RM,” on the bottle. Akin to an auteur in the world of winemaking, récoltant-manipulants, or grower-producers, craft their wines from a minimum of 95% estate fruit. The 5% wiggle room exists in case a grower needs to purchase 5% of another varietal for their blend. Today’s example is 100% estate fruit. Not only are grower-producers the bona fide “mom and pop” version of Champagne producers, they are capable of controlling quality from the roots of the vines to the final glass poured at the end of your celebration.
These dedicated vigneron winemakers, like François Lecompte, are the producers we simply love to promote at SommSelect. Champagne François Lecompte was first established by a family of dedicated vignerons back in 1876, and it has remained in the family ever since. Derived from pristine fruit from Rilly-la-Montagne, this non-vintage Brut Rosé is a balanced blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that is grown, fermented, aged and bottled entirely on the family estate. They produce a delicate, perfumed rosé of elegance, soft and supple texture that is an enchanting snapshot of the charming village’s distinct terroir. A rare value in the celebrated region, this wine encapsulates everything we crave in a bottle of world-class Rosé Champagne.
The François Lecompte Premier Cru Rosé displays a light rose petal pink core with fine beading rising from the center of the glass. The delicate and beautifully refined nose charm with aromas of freshly picked wild strawberry, pomegranate, hibiscus, wet rose petals, lemon zest, brioche and a touch of hazelnut, courtesy of the small amount of Chardonnay, along with crushed chalk minerality. Once the wine sheds a touch of carbon dioxide, the heavenly soft texture caresses the palate with medium-plus body and unfolds with wonderful density and an array of flavors including crushed hazelnut, white mushroom, brioche and crushed chalk. I highly recommend forgoing a tall, thin champagne flute in favor of an open-mouth champagne glass or a white wine stem. Although the bubbles dissipate more quickly, the aromatics are totally mesmerizing in a Burgundy stem—the wine never stays in my glass long enough for that to become an issue with bubbles anyhow. When serving, remove from the fridge and pull the cork 15 minutes before serving; this allows the temperature to rise and the carbon dioxide to slightly dissipate, allowing the truth of the wine to emerge. Pair this wine alongside
Thomas Keller’s Salmon Cornets for the ultimate start to any night.