A hidden gem, Domaine La Madura is nestled in the small appellation of Saint-Chinian within the larger winegrowing region of France’s Languedoc. The terroir of Saint-Chinian has developed a reputation for its complexity that is blessed with wavering microclimates, intricate combinations of soil types and varying altitudes. While many winegrowers and winemakers view this appellation’s diversity as a challenge, Cyril and Nadia Bourgne fell in love with the region’s range and saw it as a strength when they purchased the estate back in 1998. The husband-wife team came by their serious passion for great terroir and incredible wines organically. Nadia gained a love for great wine in the tourism industry before she applied her efforts towards the vineyards and cellar with Cyril. With previous extensive work and education in biochemistry, genetics and oenology, Cyril brought a bounty of applicable knowledge with him before buying the estate. Together, they have become a powerhouse couple in the Languedoc and their wines have forced everyone to reexamine the Saint-Chinian appellation in a new light.
Cyril and Nadia are fully committed to sustaining a diverse biological system in their vines. They practice organic viticulture, plough their soils, add organic compost, plant cover crops in winter and spring, thin the leaves when necessary, and analyze the soils to maintain impeccable health for thriving grapes. These labor-intensive practices and dedication to producing the highest quality fruit combined with the varied terroir of the region result in wines of power and serious, enchanting character. Their Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache and old, gnarly Carignan vines are planted at elevations between 500 and 1,000 feet. Soil combinations vary with each varietal plot and consist of clay, limestone, sandstone and shale. In some parcels, the wind is swift where it is mild in others. With varied microclimates and terroir of the region, this 2010 Grand Vin delivers a cuvée of stunning character, immense complexity and serious depth.
The fruit is hand-harvested then destemmed. Each varietal is fermented separately and catered to individually during elevage. The Mourvèdre and Syrah undergo fermentation in barrels while the Grenache and old vine Carignan undergo fermentation in concrete tanks. All of the varietals are matured in barrels on their lees for twelve months—creating fullness and finesse on the palate. The final blend for the incredible 2010 vintage is comprised of 45% Mourvèdre, 41% Syrah, 8% Grenache and 6% old vine Carignan. A profound wine with few peers in the world, this cuvée combines wild and complex fruit notes with perfect freshness, minerality and structure that is truly one of a kind.
The 2010 Grand Vin is as powerful and complex as the incredible terroir it is derived from. It displays an opaque, dark ruby core with purple reflections throughout. The nose and palate of this luscious wine mimic one another and boast wild black fruits including freshly picked blackberry, boysenberry, blueberry and black cherry. Fruit flavors are intricately integrated with notes of licorice, fresh fennel, black mushrooms, a hint of meat, white pepper and crushed stones. This is one of the best wines from southern France that I can remember tasting. Domaine La Madura is, without a doubt, a rising star of the appellation and delivers a wine that will be in high demand for years to come. This wine is beginning to reach its peak, but due to its impeccable balance, I foresee it soaring in its evolution over the next decade. Please decant for forty-five minutes then serve just above cellar temperature in Bordeaux stems.