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Gérard Boulay, Clos de Beaujeu, Sancerre Blanc

Loire Valley, France 2013 (750mL)
Regular price$46.00
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Gérard Boulay, Clos de Beaujeu, Sancerre Blanc


I will admit that Sauvignon Blanc does not always speak to my palate. Still, something about Gérard Boulay’s Sancerre remind us all that when this variety is farmed properly in a noble terroir—and nurtured with a gentle touch in the cellar—it is capable of producing some of the most pure and moving white wines on Earth. This family estate is located within Chavignol, a small town in heart of the Sancerre appellation. Boulay (along with neighbors like Edmond Vatan, Francois and Pascal Cotat, and Thomas Labaille) has helped continue this village’s deservedly stellar reputation for producing world class, mineral driven white wine. The Boulay family has been farming these same vineyards since the 1380’s, and everything is worked by hand and farmed organically. Gérard Boulay, himself, is known as one of the most stoic and hard working vignerons in the area—these character traits serve him well when farming some of the steepest and most dangerous vineyards in the region. 

Boulay owns numerous parcels spread across the area, and today’s wine comes from one of the most exciting. The “Clos de Beaujeu” parcel hangs on an incredibly steep 60% grade and has a fully southeast exposition. Soils are a mix of gravel and the famous chalky “Terre Blanche,” which is not unlike the calcareous soils in Burgundy. The severity and mineral content of this site create an expression of Sancerre that is uniquely regal, powerful and distinct. Grapes are harvested manually and fermented using natural yeasts in a mix of stainless steel and neutral oak. After fermentation, the wine is aged in large neutral 300 liter oak barrels before bottling. 

In the glass, the 2013 Clos de Beaujeu has a medium straw yellow with hints of green on the rim.  The nose is immediately identifiable as Boulay’s “Clos de Beaujeu” bottling—powerful, fresh and expansive showing aromas of crushed seashells, cut stone, kaffir lime, black currant underleaf, orange pith, lemon oil, and honeysuckle. This is a certified “best in class” wine. The palate is full of vivid texture and deep minerality, which all becomes more pronounced and impressive as the wine warms and sees more oxygen. I suggest letting this wine breathe for an hour or so before drinking it at cellar temperature (55-60F) from a large Burgundy stem. The quality and depth—especially at this price point is remarkable. I can’t name more than a few other white wines available at this relatively modest price that deliver this elite quality. It certainly blows away most white Burgundy anywhere close in price. One final note: remember that there are few better ways to begin a special meal than with a chilled bottle of Sancerre from a top producer. I urge you to enjoy this wine with high quality goat cheese (and remember to also let the cheese come to room temperature). For me, Vermont Butter & Cheese’s “Bonne Bouche” is the US' most consistently outstanding soft ripened goat cheese. It is worth tracking down, and will provide the perfect companion to today's memorable wine. To best understand this amazing wine and its ultimate culinary context, I recommend pouring it alongside the cheese with sliced baguette with lightly dressed summer lettuces. Enjoy.
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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