High up in the snow capped, alpine village of Ollignan, three consecutive generations of Grosjean men work the vines and cellar in this tiny family farmstead. Tending such steep and high elevation terraces is backbreaking work, but it pays off. The family consistently bottles brilliant red wines that truly stand out in the region. The vibrant energy and bright fruit in these wines speaks of the unique alpine terroir, and I can’t think of another Pinot Noir that possesses such density while remaining so utterly juicy and drinkable. Still, it is the texture and depth of this wine that sets it apart from other Italian Pinot Noirs, and make it a perennial slam dunk in my book. The only downside is scarcity—of the single shipping pallet that arrives each Spring in the US, most goes to top restaurants in New York and San Francisco. We are very excited to have been offered enough to present on SommSelect today.

The Grosjean family tree originates in Valgrisenche, one of the more remote and high elevation villages tucked in the French-Italian alpine border region. Historically, the family spent winters herding cattle in the mountains and in the summer months they farmed grapes and chestnuts in lower elevations. This migrant/seasonal existence stayed constant for generations until 1969, when a local wine enthusiast convinced Dauphin Grosjean to present his family’s wine at the region’s wine expo. Dauphin’s wine made such an impression on judges and attendees that the family soon found themselves settled permanently in the foothills and dedicated only to wine. 

Today, 56 years after his first wine expo, Dauphin can still be found poking around the Grosjean family cellar almost every day with a glass of wine in his hand. He is well into his twilight years, but now has two subsequent generations helping him with the work—his five sons plus an immensely talented grandson, Hervé, who is the chief winemaker and director of the property. Hervé oversees the majority of the daily work and business operations, he is assisted in specific farming tasks by his father and uncle, and Dauphin functions more or less as the property’s ambassador and resident historian. For me there are few things as fascinating as watching multiple generations work to preserve and improve their family legacy.

The Grosjean’s small property encompasses seven hectares of sandy, gravelly vineyards planted to white varieties: Muscat, Pinot Gris and Petite Arvine, along with red grapes: Petit Rouge, Gamay, Fumin, Cornalin, Premetta, Vuillermin. Still, my favorite of the estate’s wines—what we’re offering today—is their Pinot Noir planted in the “Tzeriat” vineyard. These are the oldest Pinot Noir vines I’ve seen in Italy and the vineyard enjoys one of the most breathtaking vistas in the region—on a clear day, you can stand in the vines and observe a panorama spanning from Mont Blanc to the north, all the way to Piedmont in the south. Sustainable farming techniques have been in place at the Grosjean property since 1975, and today only organic fertilizers are applied with no pesticides or herbicides. It’s not wonder that such a gorgeous wine originates from this beautiful and meticulously farmed land. 

As with many of my favorite wines, the vinification of Grosjean’s Pinot Noir “Vigna Tzeriat” is simple and refined. Grapes are destemmed and must is fermented in stainless steel tanks. During fermentation, the tanks see two daily punchdowns. Following the completion of fermentation, the wine is then aged in french oak for 8 months. The wine is bottled and aged for an additional 1.5 years before release into the US. Like I said above, though, this is a very limited wine—we have less than 20 cases to offer, and despite its status as an “insider wine,” I will not be surprised if it sells quickly.