Located in southern Champagne, La Valée du Petit Morin is small area largely planted to conventionally farmed, machine harvested Chardonnay. And when they say “Petit”, they mean it—there are no more than 45 hectares planted to grapevines. Even in the context of this obscure, forgotten corner of Champagne, Cyril Jeaunaux-Robin and his wife Clémence are an extremely tiny Champagne house. The family’s vines border their backyard, a small wooden press sits next to the laundry machine in the garage, and barrels age in the basement of family’s house. In addition to the small-scale artisan handwork that goes into each bottle, Cyril and Clémence differ significantly from their neighbors in that they farm organically and biodynamically and grow mostly Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir instead of Chardonnay.
One aspect that makes this area special is the flint-rich, silex soil which imparts unmistakable texture and minerality to the wines. Average vine age on the family’s property is 40 years. This is ancient by Champagne standards (most large estates replant regularly in order to increase yields) and only increases the depth and richness of the wines that result. All the family’s wines spend significant time aging in large neutral barrels, and today’s wine, Cyril and Clémence’s “Grande Tradition”, is no exception. This wine is over 90% Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir with only a small amount of Chardonnay. This is a serious and classy wine that drinks far above its relatively modest price tag.
In the glass, Cyril and Clémence Jeaunaux-Robin’s “Grande Tradition” has a beautiful light golden color moving to green and gold highlights on the rim. The nose opens with a yeasty brioche-like character followed with classic notes of green apple, lemon curd, white peach, fresh white flowers and crushed stones. The palate is beautifully balanced with a creaminess, fresh lemon, green and yellow apple and a very long concentrated finish. For me, this is really one of the best Grower Champagne values on the market. Right when the bottle is first opened it is a bit tight, but within 5 minutes in the glass it unwinds beautifully. When drinking this wine I recommend avoiding tall, narrow Champagne flutes. Instead, an all purpose wine glass, or even a Burgundy or Bordeaux stem, will better showcase this wine’s obvious quality and character. If you wish to pair this fantastic bottle with a meal—and I feel strongly that you should. One outstanding (if slightly unorthodox) companion is fried chicken. The crispy, crunchy chicken skin and creamy texture of the wine brings an experience like no other.
This particular recipe by Thomas Keller is the best I have ever had. If you have never had them together, you must. It is a game changer.
