The Crochet family were pioneers of the Sancerre appellation. In the early 1900’s the family was one of the first to bottle their wines and sell them in Paris. In the 1980’s, Lucien Crochet’s Sancerre was one of the first of the region’s wines to break into the Bordeaux and Burgundy dominated New York wine scene. To this day, the family’s white wines are a globally recognized standard. They grace numerous 3-star Michelin wine lists around the world and are benchmark examples of the region. Perhaps because there is so much fanfare focused around the Crochet family’s white wines, their outstanding reds often get overlooked. I’m excited to write about these wines today because I regard them as some of the most exciting Pinot Noirs bottled outside of Burgundy. 

Mirroring the basic soil “recipe” in Burgundy, the Crochet family’s vineyards contain a mix of limestone, clay, and stones. The family’s Pinot Noir vineyards are predominantly south facing, adding a welcome addition of heat and sun exposure to this typically cool growing region. All farming is conducted using organic materials, and grapes are harvested by hand. Following the harvest, grapes are pressed and fermented for a month. In the year that follows, 60% of the wine is aged in mostly neutral oak barrels and the remaining 40% in stainless steel tank. Next, the assemblage is performed before the wine is aged for an additional 8 months in stainless steel tank. Finally, the wine is bottled and aged for an additional 2-3 years before it is released in the US. It’s worth mentioning that this is an extremely patient, time consuming, and expensive process for any red wine with such a modest price tag. Top producers in Burgundy are releasing their 2012 Grand Crus while we are just now seeing this 2010 Lucien Crochet for the first time. The estate obviously pursues quality over commercial interests.

In the glass the 2010 Lucien Crochet “La Croix du Roy” has a dark ruby red core showing a touch of age with garnet and orange hues on the rim. The nose is deep, earth driven and complex, exhibiting notes of just ripened red plums, red currants, black cherries, rose petals, black tea, mushrooms, flower stems, wild herbs and a subtle hint of exotic dried spices. The palate is medium bodied and layered with earthy, mineral structure and pronounced energy and acidity. It has compact flavors of fresh red cherries, pomegranate, tree bark, crushed limestone, rose water and a whisper of oak spice. This wine benefits from prolonged exposure to air, so please pull the cork at least an hour before serving just above cellar temperature (60-65) in large Burgundy stems. The wine is a real chameleon, and it will continue to evolve in the glass throughout your meal and after. Due to its depth of earth and structure, this bottle will show best with protein with a touch of fat to balance its youthful edges. Pork and Pinot is a classic combination and this slow roasted Porchetta recipe will blow your mind. It is a time consuming dish to prepare, but worth every minute of your effort so be sure to invite your closest friends.