The appellation of Mercurey is set amidst the hilly terrain of the Côte Chalonnaise, about 15 miles south of the famous village of Volnay. It is here that Bruno Lorenzon owns roughly fourteen acres of vineyards, and today’s wine comes from the renowned cru of Le Chapitre. The Domaine focuses on organic viticultural practices and simple winemaking techniques, which leaves the 2012 Le Chapitre tasting focused and pure with an abundant amount of energy in the glass.
After traveling the world as a consultant for wineries, Lorenzon returned to his home in the Côte Chalonnaise in 1997, to take over the estate from his father; he is the third generation of his family to maintain the vineyards and produce classic wines from this region. Having traveled the world, learning about viticultural and winemaking practices, Lorenzon has a keen sense for the special terroir of Burgundy. He gives an immense amount of attention to his vineyards by farming organically and not using herbicides, ensuring terroir-driven qualities. Lorenzon harvests the grapes at just the right physiological ripeness, picking them with utmost caution and care, before gently transporting them to the winery. In the cellar, he respects the characteristics of each vintage—choosing to work closely with a local cooper that he formerly worked for, Tonnellerie de Mercurey. The longstanding relationship with Tonnellerie de Mercurey has allowed him to choose and age his own wood; he also handcrafts the barrels and toasts them to his own liking. This personal process is individualized for each vintage and each wine, and for the 2012 Le Chapitre, he has chosen to age it in 20% new oak for twelve months. The result is quintessential, small production Red Burgundy.
The 2012 Le Chapitre has a beautiful garnet core that matches the red fruit of the aromatics and palate. Aromas of fresh red currant, red plum, just-ripened strawberry, rose petals and a hint of wet grape stem leap from the glass with serious purity. The flavor profile of the palate mimics the nose with a myriad of just ripened red fruits, in addition to notes of white mushroom, tea leaf, wet herbs, dried orange peel, light baking spices and crushed rocks. Decanting is not necessary, but I would recommend opening the wine thirty minutes before serving into Burgundy stems, just above cellar temperature (60F). The wine will quickly come to life as it warms up and from first smell, you can tell this is a serious bottling of Pinot Noir—even though it is made in a less famous appellation. This wine embodies everything I love in young Red Burgundy, but because it is still very young in its development, I would anticipate its peak coming in five to seven years; so please put a few away in a cold dark spot in the cellar to forget about. If looking for the perfect dish to pair with this wine in its youth, duck is one of the classics and will make this wine shine.
This Roast Duck with Orange and Ginger recipe is something you must try, and it works perfectly with young Burgundy.