In Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, wine is so deeply embedded in the culture that many of the region’s villages appended their names with that of a famous local vineyard. So, the village of Gevrey became Gevrey-Chambertin (for its Chambertin Grand Cru), and, further south, the towns of Puligny and Chassagne both laid claim to the Montrachet vineyard. It’s telling that the town of Morey picked Clos Saint-Denis as its appendix, given its wealth of Grand Cru real estate; Clos Saint-Denis is the smallest of the four main Morey Grand Crus, with a relatively large number of owners producing minuscule quantities of wine, so it’s not the easiest Grand Cru wine to get one’s hands on.
But when you do—and especially when you do so in a top vintage like 2014—look out: This is the kind of impeccable, ever-evolving Pinot Noir that expensive, lifelong obsessions are made of. Florence Heresztyn and Simon Mazzini—she’s part of the well-known Gevrey-Chambertin clan; he’s originally from Champagne—released the first wines under their own label in 2012, and, while they are rooted in Gevrey-Chambertin, their tiny parcel of Clos Saint-Denis is their sole Grand Cru holding. This 2014 is such a special wine I simply had to offer it, even though our supply is so small we can only offer a single bottle per customer (Heresztyn-Mazzini has fast become a darling of the British wine press, so we’ve got some competition for their limited releases). File it under fleeting, but magical, wine experiences: Should you manage to get a bottle, that’s what you’re in for!
The Heresztyn-Mazzini vineyard holdings extend over 5.5 hectares and their focus is on red wines, especially from Gevrey-Chambertin. They have embraced organic and biodynamic agriculture but don’t yet carry a certification, and their preference is for ‘whole-cluster’ fermentations and lighter extractions—the wines are all about transparency, perfume, and energy, especially in the case of Clos Saint-Denis, which is celebrated for producing reds of considerable power but also exceptional refinement. Florence and Simon’s small parcel within Clos Saint-Denis is measured in square meters, not hectares (the entire vineyard is about 6 hectares), and from it they produce about 1,000 bottles per year. It was fermented using more than 70% whole clusters and aged 16 months in roughly 35% new French oak barrels.
This is a Grand Cru in which Heresztyn-Mazzini has a lot of big-name competition (e.g. Dujac, Ponsot), but this 2014 confidently holds its own, showing the pitch-perfect balance and age-worthy structure of the vintage. It’s absolutely on fire at the moment with decades of life ahead of it. In the glass, it’s a deep, reflective dark ruby with aromatics we all dream to encounter in great red Burgundy. Shortly after opening, you will find notes of highly perfumed cherry blossoms, wild strawberries, black tea leaves, pomegranate, chestnut, forest floor, black mushrooms, rose petal, wild flowers, and damp underbrush. It starts out with glycerol-rich, perfumed, sweet red fruit (absolutely delicious and charming), then buttons up with incredibly soft tannin, delicate crushed-stone minerality, and a perfect tension that brings supreme balance. Medium-plus in body and boasting a long, penetratingly aromatic finish, this is delicious and drinkable now, but I’m determined to see how it blossoms given 7-8 more years of bottle age. It is a wine that should age gracefully for at least 20 years, revealing more layers as more time passes. It is investment-grade red Burgundy by any measure, and will be magic next to woodsy dishes incorporating duck, squab, or other game birds. Just, wow. Enjoy!