Today we’re going back to one of our favorite off-the-beaten-path wine sources: Tenerife, the towering volcanic island in the Canaries. We love these savory, saline, mineral wines so much that we’ve got two for you, side by side. First up is a brand new discovery for us all–an electric, smoky white wine from the Mesa brothers. These three young gents took up the mantle of the winery that their grandfather founded 80 years ago in the Valle de Güímar, and have used the bounty of their very old, pre-phylloxera vineyards to produce scintillating wines that show off this unique terroir perfectly. It’s time to unleash the distinct deliciousness of ancient, volcanic vines . . . so stock up, sit back and enjoy the Canary Island life!
Just a short drive from the palm lined plazas and seemingly endless stack of terraces and balconies that overlook the Atlantic Ocean in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, you’ll arrive in the Valle de Güímar, which sits in the shadow of Mt. Teide, a dormant volcano that is also the tallest peak in Spain. Vineyards were first planted here by Spanish missionaries in the 15th century, and thanks to soils of almost pure volcanic sand many of the vines are extremely old since pests like phylloxera cannot survive here. It’s a perfect environment for farming and winemaking in accordance with nature, and without the use of chemicals or additives of any kind, and that is exactly the philosophy that the Hermanos Mesa are committed to.
Fernando, Tomas, and Carmen Mesa inherited a few parcels that their grandfather, José, planted between 1940 and 1950. At that time, and for most of its viticultural history, the wines of Tenerife were produced almost exclusively for local consumption. Making a living from farming the harsh environment was very difficult, especially since residents and tourists alike were accustomed to paying very little for the local wines. But that dynamic has changed quite dramatically in the past decade or so, as the wines have gained a small but devoted following among sommeliers and wine professionals all over the globe. With that new reality in mind the Mesa brothers are poised to make quite a splash, and we’re super excited to introduce you to their “calling card” cuvée “Locartas.”
Made almost exclusively from old vines of Listan Blanco (aka Palomino), with a touch of Albillo Criollo, the “Locartas” perfectly captures the essence of the Valle de Güímar with a smoky, citrus dominant bouquet that also has hints of white flowers, shrub, and sea breeze. The bright, lively texture and medium-light body follows with flavors of green apple, Key lime, and wave after wave of saline minerals. A brief decant is helpful to let some of the overt smokiness settle, then serve chilled, around 48-50 degrees, in an all-purpose stem alongside anything fresh from the ocean, or try the traditional recipe for Sancocho below. The Canary Island life is really quite nice, dive in!
