With almost every category and region in the wine world, we have to taste dozens, sometimes hundreds, of examples before we find a winner that hits all the right notes. But that is not the case with Langhe Nebbiolo. For a multitude of reasons, these wines are hitting on all levels, and we are left to pick the very, very best—the true “cherries”—to offer up for your enjoyment. Ada Nada has made that exclusive list for several years now, and the 2021 has somehow managed to exceed all previous vintages for a combination of pleasurable drinking, aromatic pizzazz, and beguiling complexity. It is so effortlessly enjoyable that it is a prime candidate for “desert island wine,” i.e. a wine you’d be happy to be stuck with every night of the week. And since it is a humble “Langhe Nebbiolo,” the value is outstanding. Buy this by the case!
Langhe Nebbiolos like “Serena” are not-so-secret weapons that, in many cases, are the estate’s way of introducing themselves—the wines they court you with before you decide to walk down the aisle with a pricier Barbaresco or Barolo. In the hands of a heritage producer like Ada Nada, that usually translates into transcendent value. While not as well-known as some other heritage estates of Barbaresco, the Ada Nada property is unquestionably a local landmark. The label was founded by Carlo Nada in 1919 and is now run by fourth-generation proprietor Anna Lisa Nada (daughter of brand namesake Ada) and her husband, Elvio Cazzaro, who’ve both been at the helm since 2001. During that time, the property has gradually expanded from a mere three hectares to its current nine hectares of vineyards, all of them in their home village of Treiso—and mostly within the “Valeirano” and “Rombone” crus (which, in an effort to claw back some terminology from the French, are now called “MGAs,” short for Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva). All farming is organic, average vine age is 40 years, and fruit is harvested exclusively by hand.
For the “Serena” bottling, younger estate vineyards in Treiso provide the fruit, which is hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel. Maceration on skins during primary fermentation lasts a week or so (much shorter than for Barbaresco), and the finished wine spends three months in French oak barriques, then several months in bottle, before release. Its tannic structure is less intense by design, as is its wood influence, so what you get is pure Nebbiolo fruit and minerality with no adornments.
This elegant, perfumed, and perfectly balanced 2021 shines a bright garnet red in the glass, with a ripe core of spiced cherries and red currants, supported by scents of violet, rose petal, white pepper, leather, tobacco, and candied orange peel. It is medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and mouthwatering acidity, with a persistent and highly aromatic finish. Decant it 30 minutes before serving at 55-60 degrees in Burgundy stems and watch it unfold over the course of a great meal. Looking ahead, I could see this being a great choice for an Easter or Passover grilled leg of lamb, or for any meals incorporating game meats or freshly foraged spring mushrooms. As always with Nebbiolo, think “woodsy” and you’ll be in great shape. Enjoy!
