If you were to skip across the creek behind Matthiasson’s home in the Oak Knoll District, you’d soon be walking down the rows of the “Linda Vista” vineyard. Fun fact: These organically farmed 30-year-old vines neighbor the site whose raw material went into Château Montelena’s Burgundy-toppling 1973 Chardonnay, a bottle that took first place in the Judgment of Paris. 

In 2021, Matthaisson’s hand-picked grapes were lightly pressed with clusters intact, and the juice was sent into used French barrels after a day of cold settling. A native-yeast fermentation and partial malolactic took place in these vessels. After eight or so months of maturation on raw lees—without any stirring (bâtonnage)—the wine was bottled. 

Because of its nervy energy, I recommend a 30-minute decant before serving in large Burgundy stems. This Chardonnay carries itself with piano-wire tension and a gentle pulse of crushed white rock layered with green apples, fresh cream, melon skin, white flowers, honeysuckle, and lees. It’s medium-bodied with just the slightest kiss of integrated oak spice and ripeness that hints at its Napa Valley origin. Still, this is a world away from the lush, buttery Chardonnays that saturate the market—it’s clean, precisely textured, and tantalizingly fresh. It’s fantastic.