Hidalgo’s “Wellington” VORS 30 Years (Very Old Reserve Sherry) contains wines from an ancient solera in which the average age is a minimum of three decades. However, their importer tells us it’s more around the 50-70+ range and is not labeled as such since no official designation exists beyond the one listed on today’s label. But it’s much deeper than that: the small battery of barrels from which they pull this extraordinary Palo Cortado was already in place when Hidalgo acquired the estate back in 1792! Hard to fathom, I know, but it’s not a stretch to say there are traces of 230+-year-old wine in today’s very bottle. 

This antique wine shines a brilliant deep amber color with a cacophony of aromas: toasted almonds, orange rind, vintage leather, sandalwood oil, salted nuts, cacao, toffee, clove…and much more. The palate is dry, full, and rich with mind-bending levels of complexity. The lively acidity maintains a perfect amount of tension and freshness that enhances the minute-long finish.

While Sherry has its own glass—the copita—we’re not big fans. Let this aerate properly in an elegant all-purpose white wine glass that allows for swirling; no decanting is needed, and the ideal serving temperature is around cellar temp (55 degrees). Once opened, the wine will keep for several weeks—sometimes up to several months, just not indefinitely—if re-corked and kept in a cool, dark place. But I can’t imagine a scenario where there would be any of this wine left over: it would be amazing with a plate of Manchego with almonds and membrillo; with something rich and savory like braised oxtail; with some bitter chocolate; or even with sweeter chocolate desserts, with which its dryness would be welcome (sometimes ‘sweet-on-sweet’ is just too much). This will serve you very well, regardless of the application—it’s a must-have!