Riesling is a world-class white wine grape, and is most famous for its ability to make a full spectrum of styles—bone dry to unctuously sweet—that all have an unmatched ability to provide a crystal clear snapshot of pure terroir. They can also way over-deliver when it comes to value, and today’s discovery takes home all the trophies in this category: This is the most energetic, complex, and downright delicious white wine in the sub-$30 category that we’ve tried in months. It is a truly captivating, soft shock to your palate. It’s akin to biting a crisp apple, licking a Himalayan salt rock, and receiving a low -oltage jolt of electricity at the same time. Spring is almost here, and this is the perfect wine to wake you up from the winter doldrums. It’s also what you’ll want around all season long and well into the summer, so stock up now before it’s gone!
Jan Eymael and his family have been the owners and stewards of Weingut Pfeffingen for generations, going back several centuries. Indeed, their coat of arms—which includes the iconic unicorn that you find on all of their labels—was conferred by Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand II back in 1622. Today the Eymael clan manages the property in the same way that almost all of Germany’s top estates do: With one foot in the door of clean, precise, exacting modernism and the other firmly planted in the ancient history and traditions of their village and region. This means that you can find pristine, temperature controlled steel tanks in one part of the cellar, and walk down into a dark, ancient room lined with giant, decades-old oak barrels in another. They make a full range of styles from a range of varieties including Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer, but as is the case with many top estates, their focus is on dry wines and Riesling is still the most important grape.
The Pfalz is the “sunniest” of the classic German wine regions that cluster around rivers feeding into the Rhine, or along the Rhine itself. As such, it was long known for producing large amounts of everyday table wine, or “Landwein” as it is known in Germany. But there have always been some top tier estates that produce world-class wines, including GGs, from Pinot Noir and of course the iconic Riesling. Pfeffingen is squarely in that club, and has been recognized as a leading Pfalz estate for many years now.
The soils and geology of the Pfalz are varied, but the key to producing elegant, energetic, and mineral-draped Riesling is found in limestone. This is what helps to set Pfalz Riesling apart from the slate-dominant regions like the Mösel to the north, giving it a textural and saline quality that shares almost as much with Chablis as it does with its Rhine brethren. The Pfeffingen Estate Riesling is sourced from vineyards that are almost pure limestone, showcasing perfectly the style and tradition of the winery.
Serve at a crisp 48-50 degrees in an all-purpose stem and then buckle up for a zippy, exuberant ride. A very pale yellow-green hue leads to classic Pfalz notes of white peach, yellow apple, apricot, lime peel, citrus blossom, wet rock, and a touch of freshly grated ginger. The bright texture and snappy acidity culminate in a vibrantly long, salty, mineral laden finish. It’s both light and seemingly easy drinking, and also surprisingly complex. Enjoy with a range of salads, shellfish, and almost any spicy, tangy Asian inspired dish you can imagine. Indeed, it is such a versatile food wine you should keep it on hand all year round, and given the great price you can do just that. Stock up!
