It’s February, so love is in the air, and we couldn’t think of a more perfect, more romantic wine than today’s bottle of seductive sparkling wine that hails from high in the Italian Alpine foothills. Made in the “classico” method (a.k.a. exactly as they do in Champagne), this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has all the grace, subtle sophistication, and effortless charm of the best sparkling rosé that France has to offer, at a much more pastoral price. And small wonder, as it comes from the humble, hardworking Grosjean family, who have been farming, raising livestock, and making wine in the Valle d’Aosta for many, many generations. “Montmary” is the name of one of the most prominent nearby peaks, and if that doesn’t conjure up cozy thoughts of aprés ski drinks by a roaring fire in an Alpine lodge, then nothing will! But this is the kind of energetic, bone dry sparkler that will also be perfect come spring and summer, so don’t hesitate to stock up today.
For countless generations, the Grosjean family has lived and moved with the seasons in the most traditional Alpine way imaginable. This means moving the cattle herd up to higher pastures in the summer to feed, and then back down to the valleys before winter sets in. And while the cows were out to pasture, the family would be busy farming and harvesting everything they needed to fortify themselves over the long winter months. This included grapes for wine of course, but it wasn’t until 1969 when Papa Dauphin presented his wines at a local fair to much acclaim that the family really focused on making wine as a full time livelihood. Today it is Dauphin’s five sons and their families that farm the pristine, organically certified vineyards that sit at the doorstep of Europe’s tallest mountains.
The Valle d’Aosta is a small region that sits at the very tip of Northwestern Italy, bordered by Switzerland and France. Indeed, this area isn’t so much “Italian” as it is Alpine, and the village, family, and street names are a mix of languages including the local dialect known as “Valdôtain.” The picturesque valley is surrounded by the famous peaks, including the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc, and the winemaking tradition has long been influenced by the high elevation and the confluence of cultures. The Grosjean family farms both international varieties like Pinot Noir Gamay, and Chardonnay, as well as a whole host of local grapes. Red wines are their bread and butter, supplemented by some very fresh mountain whites, but their “Metodo Classico” rosé is a truly distinct, refreshingly delicious anomaly.
A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay that is fermented with native yeasts in tanks before bottling, secondary fermentation, and 15 months of aging on the lees. This is an almost bone dry extra-brut, with just a scant two grams of dosage, which allows the pure, Alpine fruit and minerality to shine through. Serve the “Montmary” at a crisp 45 to 50 degrees in an all-purpose glass and you’ll notice the shimmering, salmon-pink color with hints of coral. The lively aromas of wild strawberries, white peaches, lemon zest, violet, orange blossom, and crushed rock are matched by a palate of crisp berries, blood orange, raw almond, and sea salt minerality. It’s perfect on its own, aprés ski style, or even better with a plate of Alpine cheeses and charcuterie. But you can also be adventurous and serve with flavorful Southeast Asian dishes like the lemongrass and shrimp soup below. Whatever you choose, the elegant effervescence of this rare find is sure to melt hearts.
