Single-vineyard Barbaresco that drinks well now, but will also age, for well under $100. What else needs to be said? Well, perhaps we can remark on the legendary producer behind the wine: Oddero. This Oddero family (there are several in these parts) traces its roots in the Barolo region at least as far back as the 17th century, and their collection of acclaimed single vineyard parcels—“Villero,” “Brunate,” and “Vignarionda” in Barolo, and “Gallina” in Barbaresco—is like a Piedmont’s Greatest Hits compilation. Nevertheless, despite a name that rings out and wines with legendary track records of quality and longevity, Oddero’s pricing has remained steadfastly fair. Opening this 2020 won’t just be a joy because of the complex and soulful wine inside—it’s an opportunity for you to show off, not because of how much money you spent, but how much you saved. We put a lot of “no-brainers” up here, but this one takes the cake.
Although Poderi e Cantine Oddero is better known for Barolo, from some of that appellation’s most acclaimed single vineyards, today’s wine is grown and vinified in nearby Barbaresco—and more specifically in the village of Neive, where the “Gallina” MGA (“Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva,” the new Italian way to denote a cru) is located. The Oddero parcel in Gallina (as in Burgundy, there are many producers who farm vines in/bottle wines from the same vineyard) contains vines ranging in age from 13 to 50+ years. The exposition is southeast, and the soils are the classic Langhe mix of limestone/clay marl and sandstone.
Mariacristina Oddero helms this legendary estate, with assistance from her niece, Isabella, and her son, Pietro (the seventh generation). Mariacristina’s great-grandfather, Giacomo, was a Barolo legend: born in 1847, he inherited a small property near La Morra and became one of Barolo’s first bottlers, known for his enviable collection of top Nebbiolo vineyards. His grandson, also named Giacomo (Maria Cristina’s father) brought the Oddero name to further prominence. The family now farms a total of 35 hectares of vineyards, 16 of which are planted to Nebbiolo for Barolo and Barbaresco.
The hand-harvested grapes from the small Oddero plot in “Gallina” are carefully sorted, gently destemmed, and pressed to stainless steel tanks for fermentation, with skin maceration lasting roughly 25 days. The wine spends a minimum of nine months in larger-format French and Austrian oak casks, followed by a minimum of six months of aging in bottle before release.
In 2020, a vintage described as very open-knit and “generous,” the Odderos crafted a wine of serious structure—yes, it’s a pleasure to drink now (provided you give it 30-60 minutes in a decanter first), but this has 10+ years of aging potential should you decide to go that route. Our suggestion? Do a little of both, of course! This smoky, leathery Barbaresco shines a luminous garnet-red with crimson, pink, and orange reflections, delivering highly perfumed aromas of black cherry, red currant, rose petal, licorice, sandalwood, leather, and underbrush. It is medium-plus in body, with firm tannins that frame the fruit. It displays beautiful finesse but also serious persistence, and it is crying out for a nice osso buco or truffle risotto. Go ahead, crack one open now and serve it at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems. Sip slowly, eat well, and enjoy! `It doesn’t get more classic than this.
