If you’re like me, then having a high quality Burgundy value in both red and white on hand at all times is paramount to good living. This morning’s discovery has the Pinot Noir side of the tracks covered quite nicely, so now we’re following that up with the perfect house Chardonnay, sourced from its ancestral home in the southernmost outpost of Burgundy. To be perfectly clear, we’re not talking about a heavy, oak-laden, butter bomb–quite the opposite. Domaine Cheveau’s single vineyard stunner is bursting with bright, zippy fruit, sunny texture, and tons of minerality. There’s zero oak here, just joyful, exuberant, wonderfully fresh white wine. It’s also surprisingly limited (500 cases total production!), given its bargain price point, so stock up before we’re sold out.
Domaine Cheveau is relatively young, by Burgundy standards, having been founded in 1950 by André Cheveau. Today his grandsons, Nicolas and Julien, are at the helm of this 14 hectare estate that stretches south to the Beaujolais Cru of Saint-Amour, but whose cellar and geographical heart is located in the storied commune of Pouilly-Fuissé. The larger appellation here is the Mâcon, and although we’ve sung this song many times before, it still resonates: this is the sleeping giant of high quality, yet shockingly affordable, White Burgundy.
The Mâconnais geography is much more varied than the famed and ubiquitous slope of the Côte d’Or, and the polyculture–orchards, livestock, grains–makes for a beautiful landscape that is dotted with, not dominated by, vineyards. This fact, coupled with a post war history of industrial farming, necessitates careful curation. But with Domaine Cheveau there’s zero concern: This family farms, harvests, ages, and bottles each of their individual parcels with the utmost care. The “Les Grandes Bruyères” is a single parcel of 40 year old vines in the village of Fuissé, just outside the more lucrative Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. Like all the estate’s wines, the vineyard is farmed sustainably with organic practices, the fruit is hand harvested, and the juice is fermented with native yeasts in the cold Cheveau cellar.
“Les Grandes Bruyères” sees zero oak, but it does spend 12 months aging on the lees in steel tanks. This adds texture, complexity, and depth, without any heavy oak spice or buttercream. 2022 is a vibrant, fruit forward vintage throughout Burgundy, but the wines maintain excellent balance and freshness, especially from top producers like Cheveau. Serve this snappy Chardonnay at a cool 50 degrees in Burgundy stems and the straw gold hue with just a hint of green will open up quickly. Classic notes of yellow apple, nectarine, citrus blossom, lime cordial, raw almond, and wet stone are in lockstep with the crunchy fruit and medium-bodied texture that finishes with loads of saline minerals. It’s a perfect companion for all sorts of spring and summer faire, from roast chicken to grilled fish to baja tacos. Be sure to stock up so you have enough to last well into the fall!
